Here we are at the end of our cruise. It has been too short. Just as we got in the rythmn it was time to end. We have enjoyed getting to know our cruise companions and will miss them. We plan to meet Ron and Barbara in Budapest and go to the Gellar spa. Geoeff and Kay are doing back to back cruises so will be off for more on the Avalon Passion.
It was so nice to have prepaid our tips. We left extra for Birgit, our maid as she was very sweet and attentive. I asked for one extra bath towel and some days we had 5 of them. Everyone took very good care of the guests. Considering they are on the boat for 8 months we only 1/2 day off a week they were in great spirits.
Tony told everyone to be on deck as we sailed into Budapest so we were up extra early. It was interesting to see what are obviously holiday homes intermingled with beautiful new homes buit for year round living. But then, we arrived in Budapest. We cruised past Margaret Island, a beautiful, traffic free island, under the Chain Bridge, past the glorious parliament buildings, and the castle high on the hill in Buda and docked near the Lisbeth (or White) bridge. It was one sight after another. With Tony narrating we knew where to be looking and that was a good thing as there was much to see. After docking we had a bus tour of Budapest which should have got us orientated but it didn't seem to work for me. We seemed to go over a bridge and then back over another until I didn't know if I was in Buda or Pest. Roy said it didn't help him much either but we both had some landmarks and that helped.
We got a walking tour of Buda. Took pictures of the view from the Fisherman's bastion and toured Mathias church. This was not, as Roy said, an ABC (another bloody church). It has almost no gold trimmings but every available space was painted in patterns which in my memory are earthy tones. The organ music was pleasant to my ears and made it feel like a place to worship. We even found time on our way back to the bus to pick up an ornament for our travel tree; an egg shaped, hand painted wooden ornament. Now that we are home and looking at it I fear it probably wasn't hand painted, oh well!
We are being careful with our purchases in the hope that we can go home with only carry on luggage. Glass objects purchased in Prague may put that idea out of reach but we will see.
Back on the bus we finished our tour of the city and we're on board for our last lunch. Lunches are buffet style. I have been trying hard to be careful not to gain too much weight and find buffet meals harder than meals served to me. It is a bit strange because I can take only what I want but I seem to be better at portion in what is on my plate a day eating only part of it.
After lunch we went out on our own. We haven't done enough preparation for Budapest so had to sit down and read our trusty Rick Steves book for a bit. There is much to see so we have to be organized. A plan in place we set off for the Market and walk down Vaci Utca on our way. Though Rick Steve says this street is over rated we enjoyed our stroll where vendors sell ice cream in originally presented displays, side walk cafes abound and a shop with unique hats attract our attention.
Crossing the tram lines and street to the market is interesting. There are traffic lights that no one heeds and they don't seem to actually work anyway so we finally just cross when it seems safe to do so. At the market entrance a lady in traditional garb is passing out advertising for something and she let's me take her picture. Barbara and I discover we took identical pictures. I wonder how many times a day she is photographed?
The market is huge, and hot. It covers 3 floors and covers a city block. It is rated the second best market in the world. In the basement you can find live fish in tanks, food, kitchen tools and liquor. The main floor offers mainly food, with fresh food stalls around the perimeter ( the smell of the fruit is tantalizing. Cherries are in season, blueberries, raspberries, peaches. They all smell so good! The vegetables are equally inviting and artfully displayed.) Meat vendors are in the next row in facing the fruit and vegetable stalls. It all looks great too. Oh, to be able to shop here for our food. It is an intoxicating idea. Not that we want to live here but it makes the markets we know, including Granville Island look dull. There are spice vendors and we check out several in search of paprkia. Prices seem the same at them all. I am determined to go back to the first but in the end we just buy at the last one we stop at. The couple we met from the southern U.S. are looking for paprika as well. While Liz decided how many bags of parika she needed.Roy showed Bruce the currency converter on his phone. We had already spent time doing that and will discover, when we get home that we are short a bag. Did we pay for it? We will never know.
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Parliament |
Finished with the main floor we take the stairs to the top level. This is all clothing, tablecloths, tee shirts, touristy junk and crafts. We find the first pillow covers we have seen on this trip and buy one. The stall has hand carved Santas that are beautifully painted but not as well carved. Both of us think that one would be a nice souvenir but Roy decides that they are overpriced for the quality of workmanship.
Back to the boat for the last dinner aboard. We dine with our friends and exchange address information. Barbara and Ron are interested in going to the thermal baths as are we so we agree to do that together while we are in the city.
Roy and I went to the upper deck for a last shipboard drink. A free one! Mickey signed us up for the Avalon cruise club and we will have to thank her as it got us extra perks -a fruit basket in our room, a free drink each, Avalon pins. Nice! It is pleasant up there. Not many people and the views of the city are pretty. We opted not to go on the city light tour but that may have been a mistake. They didn't get back until 11:00 and packing still had to be done so perhaps we don't have many regrets.
Next morning we have breakfast and say goodbye to the crew we have grown to know. They all seemed to relax after the talent show. When I comment on this to one of them he said it takes a few days to size up the passengers and decide who they can joke with and who they have to be careful with. He particularly had a problem with people who are okay with him but complain to someone above him. They are a nice bunch and seemed willing to chat about themselves, the boat and the passengers interests. The boat is their home when they are sailing and they treat it as such. The captain was usually around and willing to chat and generally made the passengers feel that they were welcome in his home. Our cruise was seven days. I think the 10 day version might be a nicer option.
Our taxi picked us up just before 9:00 and drove us to Hotel Palazzo Zichy. I never, never want to drive in Budapest! The driver had grown up in that area and told us about shopping on Saturdays with his dad in the Great Market (not a favourite passtime), and where the bakery that had been when he was a boy, his school and he suggested where to eat that evening. We did eat there and enjoyed it immensely. The restaurant had a history and I think everyone but us were locals. Roy had a pizza that was tasty and quite spicy and I had a salad that had more prawns than lettuce. He had beer and for about the first time I only had water. My stomach was rebelling because I indulged in too much sweet stuff in the afternoon but it was totally worth it! More on that later.
After we checked into the hotel we went to the metro and bought 24 hour tickets at a kiosk. A young woman was buying a ticket at the same spot and as we were all novices we helped one another. Roy and I left her helping the next people in line. You do meet the nicest people. We took the underground and got more help from two young ladies from Belgium who were on the way to the highly rated zoo, and managed a transfer. After that we used the underground and mainly the trams all of the time.
Our first destination was the Opera. We could tour the lobby which is very impressive. English tours were cancelled that day. After that we thought we might go to the House of Terror but there were huge line ups and we were booked for the Parliament buildings at 1:00. We took the subway to the Parliament buildings and found a place to have lunch. A nice little sidewalk cafe where we had a beer and a tasty ham and cheese sandwich. I mention this because it seems to be about the only sandwich filling. It is usually called toast. Off for our tour. Of couse there is airport style screening and what does Roy have in his pocket - his new knife. After a bit of fretting it is our turn go through screening. They tell him to put his knife in his backpack and all is well. We enjoyed the tour. It begins with a climb of a 133 step flight of stairs and then you can view the 96 step grand staircase. It is quite impressive. Then on to look up at the dome which is 96 meters tall. There is a significance to the number 96. 896 is the year the Magyars came to Hungary. Below the dome the crown jewels are under 24 hour, armed guard. The guards even have a guard and we are told to stay two meters away from the armed guys. No problem! The tour finishes with a trip down some secret stairs and then back to the ones we came in on. The tour over, we caught the tram in front of the Parliament buildings. The line runs along the river and besides being very scenic is historic. I believe National Geographic voted it second most beautiful line in the world. It would be even more beautiful if they washed the windows.
Roy figured out the tram lines and we went on to find The New York Cafe ...
Marianne told us about The New York cafe and we planned to meet there before we discovered that we would be there on the same date but different months . An old but newly renovated cafe in Budapest. Wow, what a place! It is neo Baroque and neo Classical, over the top. A virtual palace. We ordered Sacher torte, a chocolate cake with apricot filling and slabs of dark chocolate on each side. Thats not all - iced cappuccino with raspberry yogurt and whipped cream for our drink. Yup! A real blowout. I cannot imagine the calorie count. Probably a weeks worth. After our dinning experience we wandered about two of the three floors of opulence and took pictures.
Roy suggested we try to visit the House of Terror now. Maybe the lines have died down. Off we go first at tram and then the subway. Everyone had moved on and there are no lines. We walk straight into the exhibits. I wiĺl quote the brochure for it says it better than I can.
"The House of Terror is a museum now, but it was a witness to two shamefull tragic periods in Hungary 's 20th century history. It was a house of terror.
In 1944, during the domination of the Hungarian Arrow Cross party, this building was known as the "house of Loyalty" was the headquarters of the Hungarian Nazis. Then between 1945 and 1956, the notorious communist terror organizations, the AVO and it's successor, the AHV, took up residence here. 60 Andrassay Blvd has become the house of terror and dread. This museum commemorates the victims of terror, but is also a memorial reminding us of the dreadful acts of terror of dictactorships."
The museum depicts the atrocities carried out by both the communist and the Nazi's in this house. It is horrifying and tragic to learn of the cruelty inflicted in this building. I am brought to tears by pictured and movies of Hungarian people trying to escape the country. How sad that we cannot learn from the mistakes of the past.
Ron has texted us today to say that they have talked to people on the cruise who felt the thermal baths weren't that clean and the prices are confusing. We decide to go out for dinner and to a concert at St. Mary's church the next evening.
After a rest we try out the taxi drivers restaurant suggestion this evening. As I have already written, it was a success.
Our room at the Zichy is quiet and we are able to have a good rest. The room is pretty much like any other but the door to the bathroom is a glass door. It has art like they put on bus windows, a baroque design, I think. It didn't offer a lot of privacy.
The breakfast room offered pretty much the same as every other on this trip except they didn't have eggs cooked to order. They did have a grapefruit juicer which was a novelty the first morning and then we decided that we like the fruit better. We did have had great breakfasts. Norwegian smoked salmon was a sure thing every morning. After my Prague experience I didn't touch it again until the last morning. I have to say it was awesome!
After breakfast on our last day in Budapest we tried to book our concert tickets. We had to use a computer in the hotel business center in order to print the tickets. I am still a bit concerned that we couldn't clear the history of our transaction with our credit card number in it. Got a confirmation saying this was "not the tickets and that it wouldn't be recognized as tickets at the door. The real tickets would follow in two working days if available". DAMN! Now what to do. We texted Ron and Barbara and told the, we would go out for dinner but might not manage the concert. The front desk gal said she would look into it for us and she did but we found the church ourselves and there was a young man there, I guess taking reservations and when we told him of our dilemma he opened his note book and there was our name at the top of the list (the only name in fact).
Our day was a bit jumbled. The tram to the Great Synagogue wasn't running so we walked. It wasn't far. We were using the tram to save time. When we got there there was no tour til 11:00 and that was 45 minutes away. Decided to do a self guided tour. Oops, there is airport like security and someone has his trusty pocket knife. Oh well, it turned out that was the least of our worries. I had on a sleeveless top and Roy was in shorts. No shoulders, no knees. No synagogue for us.
We ventured over to Androssy Street, named after one of Hungary 's greatest statesmen, Count Gyula Androssy. Jill and Dave had recommended the Book Cafe so we went there for lunch. Another opulent cafe on the top floor of a book store (much like Chapters). We should have visited it first as the New York Cafe had spoiled us. It was pretty special though.
We revisited the Great Market using the subway and tram again. Darn, we are proud of ourselves! I should say Roy, as every time he told me the direction we should be going I thought we should go the other but learned early on to be quiet as I discovered I was usually wrong. I finally figured it out. Just go opposite to what I thought.
We had missed one whole level of the market sof decider to go back aND see what welse missued and maybe have another look at the Santas . Live fish swimming in tanks. Other than that it was pretty much the same as the other floors but not as touristy. We went to the top floor and wound up getting the grandkids each another tee shirt. We found ones with bicycles for the boys and what I hope Marlo and Alex and V will like. No Santa.
Back to the Zichy. We downed a few bottles of their free water and printed our boarding passes. The was a lawyer fellow in the business center who set our teeth on edge because he knew that the Hungarian revolution didn't happen but was just some communists fighting amongst themselves. Having just come from the House of Terror this was a little hard to swallow. We left him to believe what he wanted but we're very happy to get away from him. Tickets printed, refreshed and redressed, suitcases packed we set out for the tram to meet Barbara and Ron at the Intercontinental. It is a much busier lobby than the Intercontinental in Prague.
Their concierge had suggested Cyrano for a place for dinne. It turned out to be a Michelin star rated restaurant. It deserved it. Our first! The food was exceĺlent. I don't think I have had better. I could go on but you get the picture. The bathrooms were quite something too. The walls were all glass. Roy and Barbara both went and came back bemused. I went and walked right into a mirror. If they did they weren't admitting it.
It was a short walk to St. Ann's church and we were there a few minutes early. It is a beautiful, small church with an extremely ornate sanctuary. The priest came in before the concert was to begin and looked disheartened by the poor turn out. The churches all have concerts to make ends meet. It might be a good idea for them to put in some more comfortable seating. Those pews would put a saint off going to church. The concert was excellent. The acoustics were too. We hear J. Pachelbel's Cannon,Vivaldi's Gloria (Domine Deus), Albnoni - Adagio, Schubert -Ave Maria, Mozart -Church sonate in D minor, Ave Verum, Alleluia from Exsuitate Vivaldi's Four Seasons and Saint-Saens the Swan. There were seven strings called The Duna string Orchestra and a soprano (that we could have done without).
After the concert Ron said we should go for strudel as I had been whining that it had been my goal to have strudel in Hungary and I hadn't found any. We went to a place they had found and the apple strudel was divine! Thanks Ron!
Then it was time to say good bye to them. A sad momment for we truly enjoyed their company and felt a bond with them. It would be nice to maintain that connection. I rarely feel a mutual bond that strongly.
The next morning we were up at six and breakfast and ready for the airport before 8:00 when the taxi would pick us up. We had lot's of time to kill so had coffee and I blogged away, then had a muffin and I blogged some more.
We were delighted to find that we were the row behind the ugly seats we had going over. The people who got them were just as unhappy as we had been only they were luckier than us and had a daytime flight so we're not trying to sleep. We had scads of room! Still no screen in the back of the seat but we had a window blind and we're away from the bathrooms.
The flight was late getting off the ground so we were late arriving in Toronto. We had to go through customs. Roy eyes wouldn't scan for the Nexus retinal scan but the lady at the desk stamped our declaration so that helped save time. Once through customs we had to find the domestic flights. Up one escalator, down another, up an elevator. Then we have to go through security and there are about 50 people ahead of us and no Nexus line that we could see. I asked the security guy if he could let us move up in the line and showed him the departure time on our boarding pass. He said we had lots of time. Then after a few minutes told us the line was shorter upstairs, we should go there. The bloody lines were longer. Eventually we made it through. Someone along the way suggested our time was out on our watches, and we had an hour. We decided to hurry anyway, a good thing for as we raced along we both thought, dimly, that we heard Berg paged but didn't ever think it was us. It was. We just made it onto the plane. In hindsight we wish we had missed it and got the next flight. Many people had their flights rescheduled but not us to Vancouver. The plane was spacious, roomy, and clean. What a treat. You had to pay for gross food but the plane was clean and big. Who cared. We arrived in Vancouver and waited for our one checked bag. We had decided to check an tote bag that we brought for that purpose as things the carry on were getting bulky and a bit heavy. We probably would have been okay but decided to play it safe. It seems we were supposed to have to have taken it through customs in Toronto and checked through to Vancouver. We didn't know that so, oops! The man in Vancouver at the lost luggage was very calm and said that our bag was in Toronto and would be in YVR by morning and would be delivered my afternoon. Sure enough it was...
So we got home safely, a few of our belongings came a little later but on the whole it was a very successful journey. We met the nicest people, had a wonderful cruise even with a glitch because of the high water, our time in Prague and Budapest was well spent and we saw and did lots. What more can we ask.