Quarzazate to Marrakech Day 10

Well after our little blow up with our driver last night we were wondering how we were going to be received this morning.  We met Abdul and Linda said we discussed our expectations, that was yesterday, it is past let's get on with today. Well he had bottled water in the back seat for us, and croissants, potato chips, bananas, cookies, and soft drinks for us to snack on.  All was well.  Our first stop was not on the schedule.  It was the Taourirt kasbah,  a UNESCO WORLD HERITAGE SITE.   It was on the caravan route, and provided food shelter for the caravans and of course collected payment for their services.  Our local guide Mohammed,  was very knowledgeable.   A large part of the site is under going repairs.  It was designed for defence.  When you enter a room everyone has to duck, because the doorway is so low (it also meant bowing to the sultan when you entered the room) and the stairs vary in height, some about 2 feet high also for defence.

Some scenes from Rules of Engagement were shot inside the building. As with most buildings the decorating is beautiful with the mosaic tiling and carved plaster or cedar.  On the way in we saw some art work which looked appealing.  We liked it, it wasn't too expensive, and it could fit into our luggage so we bought some.  On the way out of Quazarate we had the option of touring one of the movie studios,  but we declined.  Our next stop was Kasbah Ali Ben Haddou, another UNESCO WORLD HERITAGE SITE .  Probability the most celebrated, filmed and photographed Kasbah in Morocco.  Our driver dropped us off at an alley and directed us to follow the alley to the end and cross the bridge to the Kasbah.  So we followed the alley to the end, no bridge?  We started back and Linda stopped and asked a couple about the bridge.  No bridge, only sand bags plopped into the water to step on to cross the shallow water.   Back we go down to the water. Yes there iare stepping stones and sand bags and plenty of boys to help you across for money.  We waved the boys away and slowly made across the 20 feet of water. The river in spring is probability 50 meter across.  The Kasbah is built on the steep side of a high mountain and once we entered the Kasbah we were met by a young man who became our guide.  First we were shown how they made the bricks during construction.  That was followed up by a steep set of narrow stairs up to the first level. From there we look at various rooms used in the past.  Talking to him we learned he has 2 children and is one of only 9 families still living in the Kasbah. He has always lived there and is thirty years old.  We continued climbing, going through the twisted alleys and steep uneven stairs. At one point we came across an artist drawing desert pictures.  We watched him finish one and he explained their technique.  They use a mixture of black tea and sugar for the brown colour and saffron for the yellow and indigo for blue.  The picture when finished is then heated using a butane torch which brings out the saffron and darkens the tea sugar mixture.  We were so impressed we bought the picture. He then offered to put our names on the picture in Berber. Linda was easy, but we had to spell Roy.

the view

Our painter

Berber living room

We were near the top by then and decided that we had done enough climbing.  At the top is the granary, the first structure to be built and seemed too much climbing to see another empty building.   So we started back down using a different and easier route.  We past by the Synagogue which is under a year long restoration using the same building techniques as the original plan.   The bricks are hand made using clay stones and straw.  Apparently there were a great many Jews living there at one time.  As we descended he took us into an apartment of one of the families. He showed where the goats are kept, and there were 4 kids penned in, the oven to bake bread, the kitchen ( he offered to make us mint tea) and the living room (where of course there are carpets for sale ). The owner of the apartment came in, turned out it was his sister's place. After that he pointed us in the direction of the river and left, probably to find more tourists to guide. Many movies were shot at this location including Kingdom of Heaven and Gladiator (Our guide was an extra in Gladiator) when he was ten and some of the game of thrones. The gladiator ring is quite visible where the set was built.  Well crossing back over the river became an adventure. There were a lot of tourists crossing were we had crossed so I picked another spot which was wider and the stepping spots not as good.  We started across, and Linda had a little difficulty and she was surrounded by boys grabbing onto her hand and arm. She was saying let go but they just kept on. Well we made it across, and I gave them some coins and off we went to find our guide and have lunch.   As usual Abdul knew someone who had a restaurant and it was clean and the food was okay.
After lunch we headed to the village of Telouet to see the palace of the Lord of the Atlas, once the residence of the Visor of Marrakech. Abdul was not keen on going.  He complained that the road was really bad, and there isn't much to see.   It was on our itinerary so off we went. About an hour drive later on not too bad a road we arrive. Abdul didn't know where the palace was. After asking a restaurant owner directions we found the place.  Huge building which looked badly in need of repair. We took some pictures and opted out of a visit. On we go. Part of the road was paved (very small part), part was loose gravel and part looked like a disused logging road back home. A lot of the time we at 20 kmph.   When we finally got back onto the main road through the Atlas mountains the road was paved but in very poor condition. Again on many parts of the road we were down to 20-30. Some parts there was pavement only one car wide, usually in the centre.  It was who comes first got the most of the pavement.   Once down to the foot of the mountains the road was in great shape for the run into Marrakech.
We arrived into Marrakech around dinner time for us.  Our Riad was located in the Medina a couple of minutes walk from Jamaa el Fna square.  We were warned, walking through the Medina is like walking on a busy street at rush hour.  Were they ever right. A wide alley might be at most  12 feet across filled with pedestrians and motorbikes hand carts and mule carts going both ways often at high speed weaving in and out among the people.   Talk about a time for having eyes in the back of your head.  We asked at the Riad, which means home with a garden or patio as opposed to a Dar or home, for somewhere to eat. The young man on the desk gave us 2 options,  one close with light meals and one quite a bit further with bigger meals. After the journey the closer restaurant  sounded just fine.  Out with the map and off we go. It was only about a minute walk, but it took much longer.watch out, Motorbikes behind you.  The restaurant was a T junction which provided great entertainment.  Bikes coming and going both ways in both alleys.   No pile ups but many close calls as they tried to get around and by each other and the pedestrians. A short walk to the square and home for a good night sleep.

Desert to Quazarate Day 9

Sunrise in the desert, FANTASTIC. Linda asked what time the sun got up and was told 6:25.  We got up at 06:00, expecting the camp to be empty with people out in the dunes waiting. To our surprise there were  only  3 people out there, and us. Just before the sun got up another one came out.  At 6:25 the sun began peeking over the Algerian hills. Spectacular but quick and not as cold as we were told it would be.  After the sun was fully up there was time to take a short walk in the dunes. We didn't stray too far out, just enough to feel like we were alone in the desert.  Shortly we saw 2 camels coming towards us with riders who got up extra early to ride further out for sunrise and be really alone.  We got back just in time for breakfast. Breakfast was a little come down from last night’s dinner, but still okay.  After breakfast one of the camp workers came to tell us our chariot awaits ( 45 minutes early).  Scramble to change clothes and repack.  This time it was straight to Riad to meet Abdul, who of course was planning on 10 not 9:15.  Abdul mentioned on the way in that there was a fossil place we could visit on the way back, no pressure to buy so we said sure.  Stopped, got a tour of the place, the dig is 25 km away.  Good tour, showed us the different types of fossil life which they find and explained that they dig out slabs and are then are cut with water.  Different species are found at different depths, from 3 to 6 meters deep.  He then pointed to the shop and left us. We walked through the high price showroom, filled with beautiful stuff, there were even a couple of toilets made out of the slabs with fossils imprinted throughout. We opted for the smaller stuff where everything had prices on them, no haggling, and no one bother with us unless we asked.  Of course there was a 20% discount on everything.  Spent some money there and left. By now it was around noon. Driver asked if it was too early for lunch, nand we said no.  Stopped at his favorite pizza and Moroccan restaurant. It was okay, good food and reasonable prices.   We left at 1:30.  We were off to see the Dades Gorge.  We drove and drove, and he told us he would first take us up to Todra Gorge.  A little side trip, 45 minutes up, and 45 minutes back.  Very impressive with narrow walls and high cliffs.

Todra Gorgej

Next was the Dades Gorge,  again up to one end and back.  Stopped for a bathroom break at the top of the gorge, larger and more impressive than the Todra .

By the time we got back to the main road, it was 6 o'clock.  Linda told Abdul, we need to find a restaurant.  He queried that dinner wasn't included in our Riad package.  We said no, so he told us he knew of a great restaurant.  Okay on we go.  A little way down the highway, he gets real excited. There was a Mousem festival in a small town, and part of the festival there are me dressed in traditional costumes, mounted on horseback, with muskets.  About 1/2dozen of the riders line up, start forward slowly, the horses prancing. About ½ way down the field ( about 150 meters long) they change into a full gallop.  When they almost run out of room they raise their muskets into the air and fire them off. As soon as the muskets fire the horses jam on the brakes.  The next set of riders then line up.  There was probably 30 riders.  Abdul said we were very lucky as he has only seen it done once before.  Apparently the ritual is to honor the saints (some Muslims do).  Where we stood at the fence to watch the riders there was a grandfather with about a 2 year old girl in his arms. She was so cute, but she couldn't take her eyes of us, and those eyes got so big when we talked to her.  We don't think she had seen people like us before  and of course grandpa was so pleased we made a fuss over his granddaughter.  Well off we went, still starving.   Well the restaurant was in Quazarzate.   We arrived just after 9, with nothing to eat since lunch and only 1 potty break.  Our driver had 2 very tired and very cranky people on his hands. We ate, and stewed over dinner and told him never again. He took us to our Riad Le Petit, which was very nice, but we didn't care.  Just off to bed.

Fes to the desert and the camp

We left Fes at about 9:20.  Abdul slept in.  Today is a very long drive 7+hours.   We drove through the Middle Atlas mountains and through the Ziz Gorge. The scenery is very dramatic in the mountains and the gorge. Some twisty roads, lots of mountains and villages in impossible places. We saw monkeys in the mountains.  Of course sheep, goats and mules are everywhere.

 There were adobe houses (rocks covered with Adobe mud perched on craggy out crops in the he mountains, complete with snow were always in the distance.  There were people selling water at unlikely spots on the mountain roads.  How did they get there and where do they go. We came out at the desert which was endless miles of rocky flat land.  The mountains, complete with snow were always in the distance.  This is a country of contrasts, in its people, it's laws and it's scenery.  We drove past villages that were miles from anywhere and seemingly no vegetation or means of support.  What a challenging and difficult life.  No electricity, heaven knows where they get water in a flat roofed mud hut.
This drive took a very long time.  We were hungry but Abdul assured us we could eat at Efound. We wanted to be at the camp for sunset as that was part of the experience.   It was 40 minutes from Efround to the camp and time was fast running out for the sunset.  Abdul conceded and drove us to the camp.  He was hungry and tired too but neither of us was terribly sympathetic as we felt we should have started out at 8:00.  Anyway...  We arrived at a Riad in the desert where after mint tea and olives we said goodbye to Abdul and got in a 4 by 4 for our trip to the camp.
As we opted not to ride a camel our driver took us 4 by 4ing in the dunes. Fun! It took about 1/2 hour to 40 minutes to get to the camp.  We were greeted and taken to our tent.  Oh my what a tent.  I tried to take pictures but they didn't turn out well.  The lining on the walls was gold (sparkly ) and a deep brown.  The floor was covered in layers of rugs.  We even had a seating area across from the king sized bed.  The bathroom had a patterned ceramic sink, the toilet was just a regular toilet and the shower gave lots of hot water and the drain worked  (in spite of the nice places we have been staying at the drain has been an issue).
We dumped our bags and went to watch the sunset from the dunes. As we waited a young Berber came and asked if we would like to meet his camels.  "Sure" so off we went to where they were resting behind a dune and under some trees. Would we like our pictures taken with the camels, Bob Marley and Jimmy Hendrix (actually their names are Angel  and ?  Something that starts with "a"). Sure we would. Next thing you know we are on the camels and going into the desert for a ride.  Now we can say that we rode camels in the Sahara desert.  The ride lasted about 1/2 hour and it was good it ended when it did or I would never have left that camel's back.  My hips were tightened right up.   Now for the good part.  Once we were  on the camel it had to rise up from a sitting position. It gets up with it's front legs first, tipping you backward before the back legs come up and you are level. Success, we are up and moving.  It isn't long before I'm grinning from ear to ear.  Ibrahim the camel man takes our pictures. My camel is in the lead and she is hungry so she keeps stopping to eat the small clumps of desert grass.  Angel and I are relegated to the rear and Roy takes the lead.  Now Angel discovers Roy and it appears that she has taken a liking to him when she pulls up close to him and nuzzle his leg.  We do well on our ride and then we experience the camel sitting down.  As you can imagine it is the reverse of standing.  Down we go, front legs first, felt like going over the handle bars.  Front legs, whoa!  Now that was interesting. It was really the most anxious moment but we did it.  Then we climbed a dune to watch the sunset. The sun was just at the horizon. After some pictures we are ready to go back to camp. I said that I could just sit on my bum and slide down.  Ibraham seized on this and invited me to go desert boarding.  He  stripped the camel of her bright yellow blanket and had it to the top of the dune in a flash. I sat on it and he gave a tug and down the dune I slid, laughing all the way.  We bid the camels a good night and left to have our dinner and to take more sunset pictures as by this time the sky had turned a glorious red.  The camels would have their dinner too.
A camp fire was burning inside a ring of chairs now and Moroccan tea and cookies were being served off to one side. We chose to sit on cushions under a hexagon shaped frame with the sky as it's roof.  Stars began to pop into view. There were no clouds.  How lucky for us.  Then it was time for dinner.  The sun had set and it was 9:00.  We are learning to eat late but it will not be a habit we continue at home.
Dinner was served in a tent.  Our table is near the door which actually makes it easier to see. First we are served bread and olives.  Pretty standard for any Moroccan meal where it be breakfast,  lunch or dinner. Next came soup. It was lovely but we don't know what was in it. Pureed of course.  Then we were served a bubbling  tagine with tomatoes, zucchini and onions. Delicious!  We scarf it down thinking it unusual to have a vegetarian meal but we are happy.  The tagine is removed and we await our desser but no!  The next course is a big piece of chicken.  I got a leg and thigh and Roy a breast accompanied by vegetables.  We couldn't finish it. Okay now for dessert. Nope. Next came two small hamburger patties ((camel?  We were told it tastes like beef, Roy thinks it was lamb) a big hunk of cauliflower in some kind of coating and green beans.  We didn't even try.  At last the dessert was served.  A plate of melon slices and oranges. A young couple from Hamburg was seated next to us and they made a god job of eating their meal.
We were entertained by a Berber band around the fire after dinner.  A few minutes entertainment that lasted until 1:00 in the morning.  We left after about 15 minutes and stood behind our tent to look at the stars.  The camp has only low lighting  so there was nothing to mar the view and what a view.   The sky was almost white with stars and the dark spaces were small.
I didn't finish with the Berber boys band (sorry I couldn't resist the alliteration ).  There were two drums, one big and the other small and four men playing concave shaped metal instruments that fit in their hands. I called them clackers.  They sang as well.  The music reminded  us a bit of the ethnic music we heard in Kenya. After they warmed their drum skins over the camp fire they commenced to play.  Before long the guests were holding hands and dancing round the fire.  After a bit of that we snuck off to look at the sky.
I was told sunrise would be 6:35 so we were up and looking east at 6:15.  Three other people were out.  Eventually one other man would join us.  This was presented as a big deal so we were surprised.  Guess all the dancing wore them out.  They explained that we couldn't ride camels out into the desert for sunrise because to the East of us and behind our tent was the Algerian border. We were behind the tent but didn't get to the border.
The most exciting thing about breakfast was discovering what was under the lids of the casserole dishes. It was fun to sit outside and eat while facing sand dunes. Camel riders or walkers appeared every now and then.
As soon as we ate it was back in the four wheel drive and back to the hotel to meet Abdul for a very long day of driving through very dramatic scenery.

Chefchauen to Fes and Fes tour

Day 5 and 6
Chefchauen to Fes and tour of Fes
First stop was Volubilis.  No, I  lie.  We drove 40 minutes  past Volubilis to Meknes for lunch and 40 minutes back for the tour and then 40 minutes back again.
 Voubilis was a very memorable place. " It was built on the site of Neolithic ruins and an important Berber village thought to have been the capital of Mauretania.  From AD 45 it was subject to Roman rule.  Olive oil and copper were its main assets ". That's pretty much straight from the book.  Most of the important relics are in a museum in Rabat that we didn't visit.  It is still very impressive.  Our guide was a young man who had grown up inthe nearby village.  His father is an archaeologist who has been working on the dig (now a UNESCO site. Our guide had the place as a playground. He has helped on the dig and is now doing tours.  We really enjoyed his commentary.  His English , French and German were picked up on the site.
After Volubilis we headed to Meknes.  It began to rain.  By the time we got to Meknes it was pouring o we were content to stay in the car for our tour.  Meknes was the capital of the sultan Moulay Ishmail. He  ruled from 1672 to 1727 and was a dreadful man who did unspeakable things to his slaves, wives, all 500 of them, his children (he stangled the girls at birth and cut off limbs of the boys if they displeased him).  I won't even say what he did to his 25,00 slaves!

On to Fes where we stayed at Riad Gheta.  My least favorite so far.  It was built in the 14th century and much of it is original. While the decor was beautiful it just could have been cleaner. They did serve a nice breakfast.  Even an egg.  Most, except for the Movenpick have been bread, olives and yogurt.   All have had the best orange juice on earth.  Man it's good.  Freshly squeezed it takes about 3 to four oranges per glass.  Abdul  got us orange juice in Chefchauen and that day we had about 9 oranges.  Had to cut back on that but hated to. The porter/server/ guy who seemed to fly to do everything was awesome.  The first night we got in very late and we were beyond hungry and tired he served us our dinner.  He had to run up and down a flight of stairs for each course. First bread and olives, next salad, then the tagine and then fruit. Oh and tea.  At some point he indicated that there was only him  by pointing to himself, holding up one finger, then swishing the fingers of one hand rapidly across the palm of the other hand and making a swishing sound.  He was always smiling and good natured.  We loved him. When we left he indicated to Roy not to let the lady manager (who we thought was lazy) not to let her see him get a tip, so she was greedy as well.
Next morning we are up to tour Fes
Our tour of Fes, spelled with an s please was another memorable tour.  Our guide, Eunice was a young man who had been to Seattle.   He was very knowledgeable about the city and its history.  We wished he could be our guide for the whole trip.  He told us about his mother shops in the market (souk). Mainly she goes for the gossip which she relates to the family at lunch time. They call it BBC Fez.  I tasted a raspberry from a stall and made Roy taste it too.  He was madly trying to warn me not to eat unwashed fruit.  Oops!  Later we put a coin through the slot and made a wish at the door of a place that does charitable work. I wished that we wouldn't get sick from the raspberry.   We didn't so I got my wish.
The Medina is a UNESCO site.  We visited the site of the university, the oldest in the world,  the kairauine library and Mosque, the medersa (lodging for students), Place Seffarine, where there is a cluster of craftsmen making different crafts (pottery, copper as silversmiths, leather work.) We also visited a place where people dye various items.  The street beneath our feet was awash with a variety of colours. We also visited a herbalist and the process was the same as a rug store.  We spent $80.00 on 2 little items we may never use.

Us at the door to the ladies prayer room at the Mosque.

The tanners were last on our tour in the Medina.   It didn't smell all that bad but they gave us mint leaves to cover the smell.  The colours are all made from natural sources such as cobalt,  yellow from sunflowers, they don't use saffron as it has become too expensive, and poppies for red.  Unfortunately we were fatigued by this time so when it came time to shop even though I had planned to get a purse I couldn't stand the hassling and haggling, I just wanted out!
We had a very large lunch while Eunice said his prayers (or ate lunch).  We were served 9 or 10 different salads in small bowls.  The carrots and green beans were my favorites.  We are carving fresh vegetables.  Salad was followed by a chicken with almonds tagine for me and chicken with onions for Roy.  Then there was a fruit plate and cookies. Full up.  It cost about $45.00 for both of us.
Next we went by car to see the kings palace, the fortress and a pottery factory where we did break down and buy something.  Our tour with Eunice was over.  He loves to read and suggested that I should read "Beyond the Veil" which I will do when we get home.
A nice day and we weren't in the car all day!

Tangier to Chefchauen

Tangier to Chefchaouen
I was awake at 5:30 and that was an improvement on the last 2 morning when I was wide awake at 4:00.  Now I know how Jesse felt when she came from Toronto and was up playing at 3:00 am. My darling husband slept until 7:00 but his shoulder kept him awake during the night so guess we are even for sleep.  The excellent Movenpick breakfast made up for the definitely  not excellent breakfasts at the Kenasi Bama in Casablanca.  We walked around the pool and looked ocross the Atlantic to Spain.  Unfortunately it was a bit cloudy on the Spain side so only an outline was visible. Dinner at the hotel restaurant.   We explored the casino which was like every other casino but didn't think it a good idea to part with our money there.
We were ready and waiting for Adbul at 10:00.  Not sure we like starting that late but we will see how it goes.
He explained what the buildings were as we passed and said a lot of the apartment buildings were owned by hash sellers. The king seems to have many residences in Tangier. 4, I believe, all with multiple guards on all the gates.  He is much loved and his picture is everywhere yet I'm not sure why.
Our visit to the Hercules Caves was amazing.  What a place. The caves are a series of rooms, some larger than others but the place is huge.  You can see where they used tools to enlarge the rooms.    It must have been a  great  advantage to smugglers and pirates as  a place to hide their treasures.

  They were inhabited in prehistoric times and in the recent past for jet setters and celebrity parties complete with hashish.  Lots of photo opportunities in the caves.  As we left the stiff wind off the ocean blew Roy's cap off and over the railing toward the ocean.  It landed below the railing, we'll out of reach but being my Roy he had to see if he could get it.  He went down a flight of stairs, climbed over a wall that was just above waist high and then scrambled and climbed up about 20 feet for the darn hat while from above I was cringing in fear that he would fall.  None of my pleading worked  - he probably couldn't hear me for the wind but I'm pretty sure he knew what I was thinking.  I really don't want to test our medical insurance and I was so afraid he'd break something (or worse).  He made it up the cliff and retrieved the cap (like you can't buy another) and then had to find a path down...  He made it, much to my relief, and he looked pretty smug. Well done for someone who is having a __ birthday tomorrow but he'd better not do it again.
Next we visited Cape Spartel, the place where the Atlantic and the Mediterranean meet. The water looks the same on either side! A nice young couple from France took our pictures and we took theirs.  A nice exchange.
Then it was on to the Kasbah in Tangier.  It is quite different from Rabat.  It is built on a hill and though it has homes just as the Kasbah in Rabat it is very different.  It is more open and didn't seem as big but we did have two tours in Rabat and perhaps saw more.  We toured the museum which held artifacts of civilizations back to the Phoenicia
 The roof top gardens are very nice but the gardens in Rabat are better kept.  We walked down from the Kasbah to the Medina.  Adbul lived in this area as a boy. He showed us his schools and said the Medina was a place he frequently went.  We walked at quite a pace past the stalls until we came to a place he suggested for lunch.  It was a cafe that only Moroccan's eat  but the kabobs were good and it was nice to experience the Moroccan way of life.  After lunch he took us to a bazaar. Aha the coin drops, perhaps his uncle runs the bazaar.  We are sure there is a commission here for him.
He put us in the hands of a very pleasant man who insisted we need to see the view from the roof. Up we went, one flight of stairs, guess what is on this level -carpets, up another level,  carpets, another floor,  oh yes, more carpets. After at least 5 floors of carpets we reach the top and a door to the roof top.  Be still my pounding heart, there is yet another flight of stairs with a bend in them,  as they have all had.  At last, behold, The View, we can see the Atlantic  in one direction and laundry on every roof top in the vicinity.  We do our best to be impressed and when he is satisfied that we are impressed enough we can go back down to the inevitable carpet salesmen and a cup of mint tea.  We have had rug salespeople try to convince us we need at least one rug in China, Turkey, and Peru and we still don't own one.  Straight out we tell them that it's not going to happen.  They were very beautiful and as we could tell well made and we liked them better than we have anywhere else . Did we want one, yes. The huge area was soon covered with rugs of every description and from every area and ethnic group in Morocco.  The promised "no hard sell" became some slight pressure until it was downright very hard sell.  "Memories fade my friend but the carpet will be there."  "We are your family we want only the best for you".  By now we are blocked in by rugs, how do  we get out of here?  Eventually we just climb over them and leave a disgusted salesman behind to pick up and put away 15 to 20 rugs of all sizes.  There are other things we can buy on the first floor we are told.  By the way, we had 3 people play different roles in the rug sales. The man that took us to the roof, the display man who hauls them out and the closer.   We have had enough and can't even think when  we get downstairs.  A disppointed Abdul awaits us.  No commission today.  He also gets an earful from us.  He treats us to nougat from a street vendor to make up. Nougat is good but no more rugs please.
We go by taxi to visit the tombs of Phoenicians. They are very worth seeing. Hewn into rocks high above and overlooking the Atlantic are about twenty coffins. 1.8 meters by about  1/2 a meter wide a 1/2 to 1 meter deep.  They are empty and uncovered, also unprotected.   People were sitting with their feet in them enjoying the view.  Oh yes, Abdul treated us to humus  from a street vendor.  There two types.  Chick pea and black eyed peas.  The peas are just steamed peas. They are not mashed.  The vendor put them in a cup and poured some of the liquid from steaming over them and shook paprika and cumin over them. He put a stainless steel spoon in each cup and  we stood there and tried to make a good show of eating them. To our horror he took the cups and spoons back,   rinsed them in a murky pail of water a put them out ready for the next customer. We didn't get sick so think we were lucky.
Now we are off to Chefchaouen.  It is 120 kilometers but a two hour drive over twisty roads and beautiful scenery.  We are in the Rif mountains.  Chefchaouen is high on a mountain. It was founded in 1417 by a Moorish exile from Spain. Then it became a fortress to repel invaders from Portugal. It was a refuge for Jews and Moriscos escaping from the Spanish inquisition otherwise was closed and insular.  Off limits to Christians until 1920 when the Spanish conquered it. They discovered Jews speaking 10 century Castilian,  extinct in Spain for over 400 years. Leather craftsmen were working in the same way their ancestors worked in the 12th century.  The Jews painted the town blue because they felt it made them closer to the sky and the colour repels bugs.  It has remained that blue ever since.
We arrived at Dar Chefcjaouen around 7:00 pm.  What a place.  We bagged the Royal suite!  The best room  in the hotel we were told.  I believe it was. We had a living room with a working fireplace, a huge bed with a TV to watch while in bed, a front garden with beautiful orange roses and a pink climbing rose, geraniums,  etc.  The outside  rooms were all like private cottages and there was a hotel building with rooms.

You only had to climb about 50 steep stairs to get past the pool to our room.  We explored our room and headed out for a walk.  We didn't have to go far to get to a bridge but we did have to fight our way through hordes of people to get there.  There were vendors before the bridge but many more after crossing the bridge.   The river is rushy and comes from the very top of the mountain..  after the bridge we could hardly  move.  I saw some towels that I thought were nice and some napkins as well.  We wandered along and bought a silver tray from an artisan. He gave us a good price because it was Sunday night, he said..   We walked on some more and some ladies saw me and demonstrated that the napkins go under your h'ijab and the towel is an apron.  We all had a good laugh and enjoyed communicating.  After our stroll we had a beautiful dinner and DISIXLZ. Oops sorry I fell asleep. The days tend to be long and we are always fatigued by the time we get to our room so it's pretty well straight to bed.  We had a delicious dinner at the hotel and enjoyed being served by the delightful young man that checked us in and saw us to our room.  Very good looking and friendly.
Chechauen  is a place to see!

 

 Dh

Morocco Rabat to Tangier
This morning we met Abdul when he came to the riad to pick us up. We will be using the same car we were in with Karem.  First we began with a tour of the Casbah.  One of the first people we met was the guide who took us on a tour yesterday. Oh well, we didn't realize we were getting a tour today.  Next we visited the royal palace.   Didn't see that yesterday but could have missed it today.  You have to get signed in with your passport to drive around and look at Royal buildings and the king doesn't even live there.  Next we went to Hassan's Tomb and didn't tell him we were there yesterday.  Guess we did a good tour ourselves. After that we went for lunch in a place Moroccans like to eat. It was sort of like Kentucky fried chicken without the coating.  It was okay and the price was right. 
After lunch we drove from Rabat to Tangier.  It took all afternoon.  We saw cork trees. They peel the bark and then it regrows.   Also learned that they grow a lot of bananas outside Tangier.   The bananas are grown in the soil under a cover of plastic, like a green house.  Casablanca has a wonderful looking tram system.  Vancouver should be ashamed of theirs.  They are building a line for a fast tram between Tangier and Casablanca, a distance of about 350 km. It is another year or so away from completion. Oh yes, Moroccans do not consider themselves African but aline themselves with the Middle East.
Arrived at the Movenpick around 5:30. It is deluxe. I could stand a few nights here!  We over look the Mediterranean,  Spain is in the distance.  Had dinner at the hotel restaurant  as it is a long way from another place to  eat but, the food was okay but the service was so slow we could have walked to another place. Roy says that I need to qualify that statement. It was my fault the service was slow -I ordered a Tagine  and they take 1/2 hour or more.  Gorgeous view.
Tangier to Chefchouen tomorrow

Abdul and Linda on the Plaza at Rabat Kasbah

May 4,  Day 2

We slept fairly well but were awake early.  After another not very inspiring breakfast (pretty bad) we went down and checked out early ready to meet our driver early for our trip to Rabat.  At 10:38 we decided enough was enough and called the tour company.  A few minutes later Karim (turns out that's his name)came in the lobby.  He claimed he had been waiting out side all that time. I had gone out and looked and didn't see him, why didn't he come in and let us know he was waiting? Water under the bridge and we move on.
The drive to Rabat should take an hour but we were two because of traffic.
You can see the ocean on your left as you approach Rabat. It looks blue, beautiful and vast. We drove along the ocean when we got into Rabat with a beautiful park between us and the water.   After quite a long drive we entered the gates of the Medina.  Karim parked or rather he stopped in the street and made a phone call.  It was chaotic out side and there wasn't much very eye appealing. "The porter will be out for your bags" says Karim.  I know we are staying in a Riad that sounded pretty nice on the Internet.   This isn't anywhere near pretty nice.  We entered a narrow street with very ornamental doors of homes on either side of the street and after a few twists and turns entered a gravel and dirt street. We bumped along it (it had a few more turns) and we were outside the door of Riad Kalaa.  Oh my! Inside was nothing like outside.  It is tastefully decorated in Moroccan style.

our bed

door to our room

After you leave reception you enter a common area with tables and chairs.  The ceiling is open to the sky (with a glass cover of course.  The second floor has traditional filagree  ornamental railing edging the hallway ( the name for it eludes me) around the rooms on that floor. There are 9 rooms.  Ours is on the first floor and is the smallest on the ground floor.  We entered through to arched, carved dòor to see our that bed has rose petals sewn across the foot as does the bath mat.   We have a bouquet of fresh flowers, a bowl of fruit and 2 litres of water.  There is a towel warmer in the bathroom. It is also tiny.  Just room to walk sideways on either side of the bed. No chairs -  no room for them.  The room is about 8 feet across and 24 feet long with a divider for a bathroom.  But it is wonderful.  The reception staff are young and eager to please.  Very helpful and patient.  Zenam gives us a map and circles the things we should see.  She suggests we have dinner at Riad Kalaa number 3 (We are at  #2) and takes our order in advance. She will be serving there tonight and will see us at 7:30.  Moussine will walk us there.  Thank goodness. We'd never find it.  I shouldn't go on about food but our tagines were delicious.  The salad has to be mentioned.  Roy even took a picture and we do not take food pictures.  Three salads in individual ramekin size dishes. #1  aubergine, #2 pickled peppers, #3

mashed cauliflower with a mint leaf.  All of the vegetables were cooked so we were able to eat them.  A Swiss family joined us.  They had very good English though it was hard for them.  Later we were joined by a lady from France.  She had enough English that we were able to converse. After we finished Moussine came and walked us back to the raid.   Surprisingly we would have been able to find our way but I would have hated to get lost!pleasant time. Moussine came and walked us back to the Raid.   Surprisingly we would have been able to find our way but I would have hated to get lost!
During the day we disobeyed Abdul once again and wove our way though the twists and turns in the  streets.  Roy took pictures at the corners so we would have landmarks.  The best landmark turned out to be the two flattened boxes a man put out side his door to keep the dirt from coming in his house.  After we got out to the main street we retraced our steps in the hope that it would help us find our way back later.    Still got misplaced once.  Not much was open on Friday afternoon as everyone has 2 hours off to go to the mosque.
The Kasbah was a fortress.  If you are reading this and want to know the history you fill find it on the Internet.  Even before we entered a man approached us and offered a tour which we took.  He had grown up living inside the Kasbah. There are many people living inside the Kasbah now. It is very clean and our guide said that the residents monitor it themselves.
The Kasbah design Oudaias sits overlooking the Atlantic and guards entrance to the river that separates Rabat from Sale. It was built by Yacoub Manor and contained a sultans residence.
We wandered through the streets and saw different door knockers. Some were the hand of Fatima to protect the home against evil spirits and some indicated that Jewish people lived the (the knocker was by their choice).  There is an open area where bazaars and slave sales were held that overlooks the ocean and the necropolis in Sale. Within the walls is a beautiful old garden.  It is very peaceful and filled with many exotic plants.  I wish I could remember how old it is.  Guess I could look it up??
Next we were confused so back to the Raid for help from the lovely Zemem.  Following her advice we set off to the Hassan Tower and the chellah.  We had to cross 4 lanes of traffic, jaywalking!  We wait til the locals cross and try to keep them between you and the traffic!  This took us to a park by the river and it was fun watching young boys diving in the river the daring one another to jump in and impress the girls.  We decided the Chellah was not possible so back we went across the lanes of traffic again.  We wound up crossing that road two more times. So we visited the Tower of Hassan and his tomb then retraced our steps.  More was open in the Medina when we got back and so we bought a leather cushion. Even bargained but probably could have done better.
Back to the Riad.