Some scenes from Rules of Engagement were shot inside the building. As with most buildings the decorating is beautiful with the mosaic tiling and carved plaster or cedar. On the way in we saw some art work which looked appealing. We liked it, it wasn't too expensive, and it could fit into our luggage so we bought some. On the way out of Quazarate we had the option of touring one of the movie studios, but we declined. Our next stop was Kasbah Ali Ben Haddou, another UNESCO WORLD HERITAGE SITE . Probability the most celebrated, filmed and photographed Kasbah in Morocco. Our driver dropped us off at an alley and directed us to follow the alley to the end and cross the bridge to the Kasbah. So we followed the alley to the end, no bridge? We started back and Linda stopped and asked a couple about the bridge. No bridge, only sand bags plopped into the water to step on to cross the shallow water. Back we go down to the water. Yes there iare stepping stones and sand bags and plenty of boys to help you across for money. We waved the boys away and slowly made across the 20 feet of water. The river in spring is probability 50 meter across. The Kasbah is built on the steep side of a high mountain and once we entered the Kasbah we were met by a young man who became our guide. First we were shown how they made the bricks during construction. That was followed up by a steep set of narrow stairs up to the first level. From there we look at various rooms used in the past. Talking to him we learned he has 2 children and is one of only 9 families still living in the Kasbah. He has always lived there and is thirty years old. We continued climbing, going through the twisted alleys and steep uneven stairs. At one point we came across an artist drawing desert pictures. We watched him finish one and he explained their technique. They use a mixture of black tea and sugar for the brown colour and saffron for the yellow and indigo for blue. The picture when finished is then heated using a butane torch which brings out the saffron and darkens the tea sugar mixture. We were so impressed we bought the picture. He then offered to put our names on the picture in Berber. Linda was easy, but we had to spell Roy.
the view |
| Our painter |
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| Berber living room |
We were near the top by then and decided that we had done enough climbing. At the top is the granary, the first structure to be built and seemed too much climbing to see another empty building. So we started back down using a different and easier route. We past by the Synagogue which is under a year long restoration using the same building techniques as the original plan. The bricks are hand made using clay stones and straw. Apparently there were a great many Jews living there at one time. As we descended he took us into an apartment of one of the families. He showed where the goats are kept, and there were 4 kids penned in, the oven to bake bread, the kitchen ( he offered to make us mint tea) and the living room (where of course there are carpets for sale ). The owner of the apartment came in, turned out it was his sister's place. After that he pointed us in the direction of the river and left, probably to find more tourists to guide. Many movies were shot at this location including Kingdom of Heaven and Gladiator (Our guide was an extra in Gladiator) when he was ten and some of the game of thrones. The gladiator ring is quite visible where the set was built. Well crossing back over the river became an adventure. There were a lot of tourists crossing were we had crossed so I picked another spot which was wider and the stepping spots not as good. We started across, and Linda had a little difficulty and she was surrounded by boys grabbing onto her hand and arm. She was saying let go but they just kept on. Well we made it across, and I gave them some coins and off we went to find our guide and have lunch. As usual Abdul knew someone who had a restaurant and it was clean and the food was okay.
After lunch we headed to the village of Telouet to see the palace of the Lord of the Atlas, once the residence of the Visor of Marrakech. Abdul was not keen on going. He complained that the road was really bad, and there isn't much to see. It was on our itinerary so off we went. About an hour drive later on not too bad a road we arrive. Abdul didn't know where the palace was. After asking a restaurant owner directions we found the place. Huge building which looked badly in need of repair. We took some pictures and opted out of a visit. On we go. Part of the road was paved (very small part), part was loose gravel and part looked like a disused logging road back home. A lot of the time we at 20 kmph. When we finally got back onto the main road through the Atlas mountains the road was paved but in very poor condition. Again on many parts of the road we were down to 20-30. Some parts there was pavement only one car wide, usually in the centre. It was who comes first got the most of the pavement. Once down to the foot of the mountains the road was in great shape for the run into Marrakech.
We arrived into Marrakech around dinner time for us. Our Riad was located in the Medina a couple of minutes walk from Jamaa el Fna square. We were warned, walking through the Medina is like walking on a busy street at rush hour. Were they ever right. A wide alley might be at most 12 feet across filled with pedestrians and motorbikes hand carts and mule carts going both ways often at high speed weaving in and out among the people. Talk about a time for having eyes in the back of your head. We asked at the Riad, which means home with a garden or patio as opposed to a Dar or home, for somewhere to eat. The young man on the desk gave us 2 options, one close with light meals and one quite a bit further with bigger meals. After the journey the closer restaurant sounded just fine. Out with the map and off we go. It was only about a minute walk, but it took much longer.watch out, Motorbikes behind you. The restaurant was a T junction which provided great entertainment. Bikes coming and going both ways in both alleys. No pile ups but many close calls as they tried to get around and by each other and the pedestrians. A short walk to the square and home for a good night sleep.
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